Himare Old Town: Visiting Albania’s Greek Castle Village (2025)

An excursion up to Himare Old Town is one of the best things you can do if visiting Himare. When I stayed in Himare for a week, that is exactly what I did.

Himare Old Town is the historic village within the fortification walls of Himare Castle. It is located on the mountain above the town of Himare, and like Himare, it has an enduring Greek culture.

In this guide I’ll explain how to visit, and what to do in this unique Albanian Greek village.

Himare Old Town: Visiting Albania’s Greek Castle Village

If you’re planning to visit Himare, let me warn you there isn’t a lot to do there. And that is precisely why it’s so fantastic – lots of coastal walks, beaches and mountain views. A half day trip up to Himare’s Castle is a very pleasant change.

Not only is Himare Castle and old town historic and beautiful, it’s unique because of the predominantly Greek culture. It’s very much worth your time to visit!

Why Visit Himare Old Town?

Himare Old Town is different from other historical towns in Albania like Gjirokaster or Berat because it’s so Greek. Locals have maintained their Greek culture for hundreds of years.

To this day they speak Greek (and Albanian) and worship in Greek Orthodox churches.

And the old town looks different from most Albanian villages. The archaeology is more similar to Corfu, Greece. If you visit Corfu from Saranda you’ll see exactly what I mean.

It’s a nice change from beaches and the coast. Albania is one of the most moutainous countries in Europe, so it’s good to get up into the hills and experience that side of the country.

Where is Himare Old Town

Himare Old Town and Castle is in southern Albania halfway between Vlore and Saranda along the Ionian coast. The village is on a hill above Himare, overlooking Livadhi Beach and the Albanian Riviera.

Himare’s old town is 2.8 km from the centre of Himare and 13.3 km from the beach town of Dhermi.

History of Himare Castle & the Old Town

Himare Old Town is the village within the walls of Himare Castle. The castle was built between the 5th and 4th centuries BC by Chaonians, an Epirote Greek tribe.

The hilltop location gave Himare Castle a strategic advantage overlooking the Ionian Sea, and protected the local population, especially during the Roman and Ottoman periods.

When the Ottomans conquered this area in the 14th century, Himare was the only region that didn’t submit. This caused hundreds of years of war and the local population continuously resisting Ottoman rule.

Eventually an agreement for autonomy was made with Suleiman the Magnificent (the tablets are on display at the Topkapi Palace Museum in Istanbul).

Himare and the region became part of Albania after WWI, but to this day Himare and the old town have maintained their Greek heritage.

How to Get There

This really depends on where you’re coming from. From Saranda and Vlore you can take a bus, from Dhermi a taxi, and from Himare you can walk. Here’s the breakdown:

From Vlore

• By car: The drive is very scenic and straight forward down SH8 and the Vlore by-pass. It’s 63 km and takes just over an hour.
• By taxi: You could arrange to take a taxi and have them wait and bring you back. Convenient, but the most expensive option. I’ve used Taxi Landi for this sort of thing from Vlore. Very reliable.
• By bus: Many daily buses from Vlore to Himare. Ask the driver to drop you off in Himare Old Town (Himare Fshat). Fare should be 800 lek ($9.60 USD), or less. Check the Gjirafa Travel website for the schedule. It’s the cheapest way to get there.

From Saranda

• By car: Himare Old Town is 56 km from Saranda. It’s a spectacular coastal drive that takes 1.5 hours. Very easy to do – it’s just up SH8, and the highway is good.
• By taxi: I’ve taken Saranda Eco Taxi from Saranda to Himare. It cost 6000 lek ($72 USD) one way, so I’m guessing it would be about 12,000 lek ($144 USD) to drive to Himare Old Town, wait a couple of hours and drive back to Saranda.
• By bus: There are daily buses from Saranda to Himare. If the bus continues on, ask the driver to let you off at the old town (Himare Fshat). If the bus terminates in Himare you’ll have to take a taxi or walk from there. Check the Gjirafa Travel website for the schedule. This is the cheapest way and should cost 1000 lek ($12 USD), or less.

From Dhermi

• By car: It’s an easy drive down SH8. Dhermi is 13 km from Himare Old Town and the drive takes less than 30 minutes.
• By taxi: This might be the easiest option because the bus is a bit tricky from Dhermi.
• By bus: There is no dedicated Dhermi to Himare bus, but if you wait by the side of the highway you can hop on one heading in that direction. This will be the cheapest option by far, but I highly recommend you ask locals about when and where the bus picks up from.

From Himare

• By car: Just head up SH8 and you’ll be there in no time. It’s less than a 3 km drive. There’s parking by the little church at the castle ticket kiosk.
• By taxi: This is how I got to Himare Old Town. The cost was 500 lek ($6 USD). The driver gave me his WhatsApp so I messaged him when I was ready to return, and he picked me up. My Airbnb host gave me this driver’s contact, and I can pass it on if you contact me. He spoke English.
• On foot: You can walk to the old village from the centre of Himare. It’s less than 3 km. It is uphill most of the way going there.
• Rent a scooter or moped: This would be fun. There’s places by the Himare beach promenade where you can rent them by the day. Then you could stop at Livadhi Beach on your way back (that’s what I did)!

Hours & Cost

The ticket booth is beside the car park on the main road, next to the tiny little Orthodox church. The entrance cost is 300 lek ($3.60 USD), but when I went there was no one there, so it was free.

The castle looks like it’s open 24/7, and the Old Town definitely is since people live there. However, I wouldn’t go at night due to the uneven stone walkways and stray dogs (they are usually placid, but get more territorial at night).

What to See in Himare Castle & Old Town

Wandering around Himare Old Town is like stepping back in time. Stone homes, cobbled lanes, chickens and olive trees everywhere. It’s so peaceful and atmospheric – like you’re in a different world.

This is the real pleasure of visiting. Strolling up and down the windy lanes and discovering beautiful traditional homes, historic churches and the castle overlooking the mountains and sea.

• Climb up to Himare Castle: Magnificent views of the Ionian Sea and mountains, especially at sunset.
• Explore historic churches: Mary of Kassiopi, Church of Saint John, Holy Church of All Saints, and Church of Saint Sergius and Bacchus. Some are in a ruinous state, other are restored and still active.
• Wander the lanes: Explore the ruins of abandoned stone homes, and admire the restored ones. See why Himare Old Town feels a bit like a ghost town.
• Have a coffee and dessert at Butterfly Cafe: Beautiful spot for a break with views overlooking the Albanian Riviera and Livadhi Beach.

Where to Eat & Drink

There are a couple of places to eat and drink in Himare Old Town:

Butterfly Cafe: I stopped in here while roaming around the old town. It was perfect! There’s a beautiful outdoor terrace with mountain and sea views. I had coffee and zup (the Albanian version of trifle). I think they also serve breakfast.

Bar 300: Taverna right on the main road (SH8) directly across the street from the castle ticket kiosk by the little church. I didn’t eat here, but it has great reviews and looks like they change the menu according to the season.

You can also head into Himare where there is more choice. I really like this spot in Himare:

Himara 28: Upscale beachside restaurant in Himare. Try the Himara 28 salad with kadaif wrapped shrimp – it’s fantastic! My favourite restaurant in Himare.

Practical Tips for Visiting Himare Old Town

After thoroughly exploring the old town in Himare, these are my tips:

• Wear good walking shoes. The cobble stone lanes are steep in places and slippery. I wore flip flops and almost wiped out several times!
• Go early to avoid the heat and crowds. I went early in the morning and it wasn’t busy at all, but you never know – especially in July and August. It can also get very hot. I was there in June and had to stand under a tree for shade while waiting for my taxi to pick me up.
• Be respectful: Locals still live in the old village, so don’t trespass into someone’s private yard no matter how lovely the home looks. Admire from the gate! Modest dress is best when visiting the churches.

Where to Stay

If you want peace and quiet stay in the old town. There are some lovely properties with great mountain and sea views.

But, if you want something just a bit more lively, stay in Himare. Himare is a seaside town less than 3 km from the old village and also quite charming.

Where to stay in Himare Old Town

These are all excellent guest houses located within Himare Old Town:

• Persephone: mid-priced guest house
• Amphora Guest House: budget guest house
• Annapolis: budget guest house

Where to stay in Himare

These are very well located properties in Himare:

• Rea Boutique Hotel: luxury hotel on the waterfront
• Guesthouse 1932: mid-priced guest house on the beachfront promenade
• Ylli’s Rooms: budget holiday apartments with a great location (I stayed here for a week with my dog and liked it)

Final Words on Himare Old Town: Visiting Albania’s Greek Castle Village

While I know you’re probably visiting the Albanian Riviera for the wonderful beaches and coastal vibes, Himare Old Town is well worth a small detour.

It will only take a few hours, and it’s a chance to visit a historic and culturally unique place in Albania.